While I would have loved a moose, the consolation prize (I endeavor to design trips to “win when you’re not winning!”) was driving the Top of the World Highway to Dawson City and exploring its mountain bike trails, history, and culture – super cool!!!  Overall, it was a great trip, and so so cool to check out a corner of Alaska that I’ve never even considered exploring!

Thoughts on the Fortymile River:

Put in: Mosquito Fork    Takeout: Fortymile Bridge

We put in on the Mosquito Fork and floated I guess about 10 miles – took us about two hours to the South Fork Bridge, I think. Levels were low and we had to get out and push a few times. It was mostly workable even at these low water levels. The dredge was cool. Worthwhile, especially to get a feel for the lay of the land. But could probably cut it off pretty easily as well.

The launch at the South Fork Bridge is much nicer than the Mosquito Fork launch – it’s super flat, and it’s the one that miners used for their air boats. When the Dennison Fork comes in, the river gets deeper and although we had some shallow sessions, we didn’t have to push anymore. Downstream a few sections had hazards to navigate and ripples to maneuver through, though nothing particularly difficult.

The confluence with Walker Creek had a nice big beach (one of the only gravel bars that appeared inviting to land on), and apparently good fishing – the guys there had caught lots of grayling and even a sheefish!  

We camped the first two nights at a mining camp that was clearly not being used.  Nervous we’d anger the “owners,” we stayed well to the side and didn’t burn their wood!  They have mineral rights but don’t own the land, so we knew we weren’t being illegal . . . talking to a few miners downriver, this seemed like an approach that didn’t upset anyone.  Also, it was a great camp – good tree cover for the rain, a beautiful beach, and a “rapid” just out front to serenade us with the sound of water.  

Our second day of floating was to a beach just before the confluence with the North Fork, and about another 6 hours of floating . . . including time chatting with miners as we went!  Anyone who knows me knows I’ve never met a stranger . . . and talk to everyone!  The crazy thing was that, in the process, I reconnected with a former colleague from Prudhoe Bay!!!!!  We’d both taken the package from BP when Hilcorp bought the field and he moved on to purchase gold claims and become a gold miner on the Fortymile!  Such a small world, and one of the highlights of my year for sure . . . I love it when Alaska feels big and small all at once.  

Our camp near the confluence was also surprisingly good – tree cover with a great big tent spot, and a nice beach across from the high rock walls forming the oxbow.  Really dramatic place and super lovely to hang out, despite setting up camp in the pouring rain.  But is it moose hunting if you don’t have at least one of those moments?!?!?  

The confluence with the north fork was super mellow, with a bit of whitewater just after but nothing technical . . . there was also a camp that looked super good about ¼ mile downstream.  

At the confluence with the North Fork, the topography definitely changes and the River doubles in size. Long Bar is a cool spot to stop and check out, and would be a great place to camp. It would appear this section is wild and so far we haven’t seen any activity despite multiple freshwater creeks coming in.  While the river depth changed markedly, the character really didn’t.  

We had about another 6 hours of floating to the Fortymile Bridge where we took out.  “The Falls” rapid was a non-event . . . I was ready for it, and we were watching for it, and even then we didn’t realize what it was until we were through, wondering if that was it!  At the low river levels, it wasn’t mean . . . in a packraft there’d be plenty of ways through.  Yes, there’s a ledge in a big raft, but not a big one.  It’s just downstream of a small wavetrain section, with a small beach on the river right.  About 2 miles from the bridge as the crow flies, since the river is pretty straight from the rapid onward.  

And then the bridge appeared.  Kinda funny after being deep in the wilderness when a road emerges 🙂  The “launch/takeout” is just downstream of the bridge on river right.  It’s a pretty steep road and would be exciting with a trailer, but was fine for the truck.  Across the road is a parking area that might have a trail to the river as well.  

I was lucky and a truck drove by about 10 minutes after we arrived and I hitched a ride back to the car in Chicken.  My partner waited with the stuff and even in the peak of hunting season, the only other vehicle that passed was a Crowley fuel truck . . . so I was a very lucky hitch hiker!!!!  Maybe not the best “plan” all things considered, but hey, it worked!  

Weather was a mixed bag, which I understand is fairly normal. Really isolated showers, especially in the afternoon and morning. I guess that means isolated showers at various times throughout the day.  There was proper interior heat for t-shirt lounging and chilly nights and mornings.  We had peak fall colors the week of Sept 7th and we watching them come off peak around Sept 18th when we left the area.  

We were there in moose season and indeed moose hunting, and while told it would be “crowded,” what that practically meant was seeing four other parties. Also, we were told that the South Fork has a lot of mining activity and so wouldn’t be as wild and scenic as the North Fork. And while that was true, it hardly compromised our wilderness experience and it was super fun and interesting to meet the miners.  After the confluence with the North Fork we didn’t see additional mining activity until the area of the Fortymile Bridge.  

Additional Resources: 

Alaska.org has a decent writeup, as does the BLM  including this map and brochure!